Kathmandu Valley is so
often said to have a mystical quality, and on this trek
you'll understand why. A mere half-hour ride away from the
centre of town are villages untouched by the excesses of the
modern world. A few hours' walk and you recede deeper into
villages where the culture, everyday activities and
landscape remain much as they have always been - there are
lovely old temples, some simple and some ornate, corn and
chilli hanging to dry from eaves, old men sitting in the
village squares, women braiding hair, threshing grain or
brewing up some potent aila or chhang, lush mustard fields
and emerald paddy stocks, silvery rivers and streams
glinting in the sunlight old brick and mud houses with wood
accents, old tanks with orante stone spouts that bring snow
melt down to the Valley sides, children looking wistfully
out of schoolrooms at bright skies and upon rolling hills,
and any of the countless local and Valley-wide festivals
that are always underway or around the corner. The
traditional Newar culture, enriched for centuries by trade
with Tibet and India as well as the extraordinary fertility
of Kathmandu Valley, is rich and multilayered. There is
incredible artistry with wood, metal and stone in the Hindu,
Buddhist and syncretic temples that dot the landscape and a
highly developed aesthetic sense in simplest arrangement of
villages and the humblest home. Yet, the Valley's culture is
far from monolithic, and woven through the daily fabric are
other ethnic groups and castes such as Bahuns and Chhetris
who add flavour to the mix. In the villages a little higher
up and farther away are also Tamangs, not quite as
Tibetan-influenced as their cousins in the high Himalaya,
but with their own distinct and discrete mix of traditions
and practices. Also ringing the Valley are dense forests of
everything from bamboo to oak to pine, home to wild boar and
deer. Phulchowki, at 2,760 m the highest point in the
Valley, is home to a few hundred species of birds and
flowers, and orchids and rhododendrons galore.
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