Nepal
Information
A quick historical background
There is, of course, plenty of history before
written records start. In the area we now call Nepal, there
was one fierce, fighting dynasty, the Kirantis, that claimed
Kathmandu Valley for over 25 generations. Around the 5th
century BC, the first dynasty of 'Indian' origin moved in to
claim Kathmandu Valley, the Licchavis. The early part of
their reign coincides with the adoption by the renowned King
Ashoka, who ruled over part of north, central, and east
India, of Buddhist philosophy. Many of the edicts he had
inscribed on stones and on pillars stand till today in part
of Nepal including Kathmandu Valley and Lumbini. About six
or seven centuries after the Licchavis came to power, their
kings displayed increasing tolerance for non-Hindu religions
including Buddhism, which is one of the hallmarks of modern
Nepal too.
The first
written historical records specific to Nepali history date
to the 5th century AD under the Licchavi king Manadeva, who
took the influence of his dynasty beyond just Kathmandu
Valley. Under King Amshuvarma, who came to the throne in the
early 7th century, art and architecture flourished, social,
monetary and administrative systems were codified, and
cultural and political ties with China and Tibet
strengthened, resulting in the first exchange of visits by
official envoys. It was Bhrikuti, daughter of this king, who
married the heir to the Tibetan throne and together with his
Chinese wife, brought Buddhism to Tibet. Both these wives
are in the Himalayan Buddhist pantheon as the White and
Green Tara.
Though with
it also came the establishment of Kathmandu city and the
acceptance of Tibetan tantric Buddhism, the last two
centuries of the Licchavi era were ignominious, with
excessive rivalry between the various clans, periodic wars
with Tibet, and general political instability. The Mallas
who followed in the 13th century, though beset by
infighting, gave birth to some of the most stunning carved
wood and brick architecture in the country. Under them
agricultural economies flourished and trade with Tibet
increased substantially. While they codified caste laws,
they were also known for their tolerance of non-native
religious practices, even allowing in the 17th century
Jesuit Capuchin monks to settle in Kathmandu.
Meanwhile
in west Nepal, there had been a constant immigration of
Rajputs from west India, the establishment of another major
dynasty, the Sens in the mid-west, and eventually the
movement eastwards, to Gorkha of the Rajputs, in search for
new agricultural land and new areas to levy tax. All this
came to a head in the mid-18th, when King Prithvi Narayan
Shah, the tenth of the Rajput Shah kings, started eying
Kathmandu Valley. He started by compromising the trade route
with Tibet, which had until then paid for the Valley's
military, strategically cut off the Valley's links with
India, and eventually, with almost absurdly inadequate
weapons, took over. By this time he ruled over much of what
we recognise as Nepal today. It was Prithvi Narayan who
coined a phrase that to this day is used to describe the
particularly tight geopolitical position of Nepal: 'a yam
between two stones' (China and India).
Although
there was, as always, some amount of infighting and
assassinations here and there, by the early 19th century the
Shah rule had even reached into parts of what is now
Uttranchal in India. Not surprisingly, the British rulers of
the subcontinent saw this Nepali expansion as land-grabbing,
resulting in the 1815-16 Anglo-Nepali war. The Nepali army
was defeated, but the British army was so impressed by its
fearless fighters, that this was what sparked off British
recruitment of Nepali soldiers ('Gurkhas'). Today British
Gurkha soldiers have served with British troops in every
major war.
History in Nepal, particularly in recent centuries has
repeated itself a number of times - coups, behind-the-back
plotting and intrigue and on a couple of notable occasions,
the killing at the same time of large parts of the line of
succession. The rule of the Shahs was brought to an abrupt
halt in 1846, when the suave prime minister Jung Bahadur
Rana took over after orchestrating one such incident,
relegating the monarchy to a purely ceremonial role. Jung
Bahadur is best remembered for his trip to Europe,
particularly France, where he picked up a taste for
neo-classical architecture and rococo splendour indoors.
Jung Bahadur tried to maintain cordial diplomatic relations
with the British, even supplying troops to help fight the
Mutiny of 1857. Ranas continued to maintain ties with the
British, offering 100,000 soldiers in 1941 in exchange for
Rs 1 million annually.
There were,
naturally, inevitable advances made under Rana rule, such as
the introduction of modern education in the Valley, but
there was also a dangerous nepotism and feudalism that
became entrenched in the social fabric - all major
commissions and positions of responsibility were occupied by
Ranas, and accountability dwindled to the point where the
burden on the exchequer, despite all the taxes levied, was
almost unbearable, particularly after the massive earthquake
of 1934 that devastated the Valley. This fiscal disaster
together with Indian independence in 1947, which meant
diminishing British influence and mounting pressure on the
Ranas to release pro-democratic leaders and reinstate
freedom of speech, enabled the nominal Shah king to regain
control in 1951 with Indian support. Nepal has since then
flirted with various kinds and degrees of democracy
alternating with periods of absolute monarchy.
Geography
Nepal is landlocked and, in comparison with its two closest
neighbours China and India, small - just 800 m by 200 km.
But don't let its size fool you. Nepal has probably the most
diverse range of landscapes in the smallest area anywhere in
the world. The process that formed the Himalayas which are,
geographically speaking, only a small portion of Nepal, gave
rise to several chains of lower-level hills that run across
Nepal enclosing within them valleys that are, even if not
high-altitude, still remote.
There are four accepted physiographic divisions in Nepal.
The southern strip of land that borders India and is bound
on the north by the Churia (Siwalik in India) chain of hills
is called the tarai. Once a vast malarial swamp, this
well-drained, fertile area is now the agricultural and
industrial centre of Nepal, though still predominantly
rural. There are also dense forests here of sal and teak,
and the lush variety of wildlife found in subtropical
regions. The hills, where the terrain becomes rougher is in
the west home only to subsistence farmers, though in the
east of the country, where the monsoon has a greater impact,
this belt is used in the cultivation of Nepal's famous Ilam
tea. The western tarai is home to the indigenous Tharu
people.
The next belt, starting with the fossil-rich Churia range,
which gives way to the higher Mahabharat (up to 2,500 m), is
often considered the central part of the Nepal, and has the
oldest established smaller and larger towns in the country,
such as Kathmandu, Pokhara, Gorkha, Jumla, and Jiri. The
traditional inhabitants of these areas, often valleys
(sometimes called the inner tarai), have always been focused
on trading (thus the old urban and semi-urban centres) and
agriculture, terracing their steep but fertile hillsides to
grow rice, vegetables, and wheat. In this region subtropical
forests give way to spruce, fir, oak, pine, and cedar. Also
native to this belt is the national flower, the
rhododendron. The traditional local groups are Magars,
Gurungs, Rais and Limbus.
The high Himalaya, which in their entirety run over 2,500 km
with a maximum width of 400 km, comprise under 8% of Nepal.
Villages here are 3,000-4,000m, with summer pasture
settlements going over 5,000 m. Here vast massifs, separated
from each other by valleys, are home to eight of the world's
ten highest peaks. The landscape and climate are not nearly
as hospitable as lower down, but people continue to live up
there and raise yaks and sheep, and even have one growing
season a year - potatoes and barley. The Sherpas of the
Everest region (Khumbu) are the most famous inhabitants of
this area.
The trans-Himalaya is basically a high altitude desert, like
the Tibetan plateau. The valleys of Mustang, Manang, and
Dolpo, and parts of north-west Nepal all lie in the rain
shadow. While there are a few occasional oases, the
landscape in these parts of Nepal, as in Tibet, is almost
lunar - stark hillsides, crumbling cliffs and a fine
red-brown sand.
The various snow-fed rivers that run north to south start in
glaciers high in the mountains and come rushing down,
carving the deep valleys that are the marker of the middle
hills in Nepal. Snow melt combined with heavy monsoon rains
can often cause flooding. But precisely because of their
spunkiness and freshness, these rivers are among the most
vaunted in the region for rafting trips.
Weather
The various micro-climates of Nepal are all direct
reflections of the country's diverse landscape. Starting
south, the tarai and bordering Churia (Siwalik) hills have a
climate much like the north Indian plains - subtropical
monsoonal. This means that in the summer temperatures can
pass the 40° mark, while in the winter they can hover around
freezing. In what we call the central part of Nepal,
temperatures can cross 35° in the summer and in the winter
it is regularly below zero, with snow at higher altitudes.
For example, neither Kathmandu Valley nor Pokhara get any
snow, but the inhabited hills surrounding them do. The high
Himalaya, which is most parts of the Everest treks, have
alpine climate and can be really very cold and snowy in the
winter. The trans-Himalaya is warm but not in the summer,
very cold in the winter and, most notably, dry. All of these
high areas are in the rain-shadow, which means that while
they get some precipitation throughout the year, they are
predominantly dry. This makes life harder than even usual
for those who live high up in the mountains, but there is a
distinct advantage for the traveller - no monsoon means that
you can trek in these places virtually all year round. At
high altitudes as from late autumn through summer, it is
extremely cold at night and you must be prepared. You need
to always reckon with the possibility of snow, sometimes
quite a lot of it. If you are equipped, this isn;t such a
problem. On the odd occasion that trekkers have been snowed
into their camp or lodge, they've found it quite an
enjoyable experience.
Nepal gets over 75 % of its precipitation in the monsoon,
from mid-June through end-September. The south gets more
rain than the north, and the east more than the west. That
is why, doing the Annapurna Circuit, you will literally walk
through a different landscape everyday, proceeding from
subtropical to desert. To a lesser degree you see a similar
change in the Everest region, too.
The best times to be here are spring (March-April) and the
post-monsoon autumn (Oct-Nov). The latter in particular
makes for excellent travelling, with superbly clear skies
(better for mountain views!), little rain, and generally
moderate temperatures. The nights are crisp and the
landscape still lush from the life-giving monsoon rain.
People
and language
There is - and always has been - an enormous diversity of
ethnic groups in Nepal - some say that in some parts of the
midhills and above, each valley has its own distinctive
group of people with different customs and language. It is
roughly estimated that there are some 60 ethnic groups in
Nepal. Half the 23.2 million Nepalis live in the tarai, and
just over 10% in urban areas. Because so many parts of the
country are too high to live in, or far too inhospitable,
the population density is difficult to estimate, though the
official figure stands at 140 people per sq km. Although
historically many different kinds of Nepalis have been
intrepid traders, much like Tibetans, there is a huge number
of people who might live anywhere from a day to a week away
from the nearest road, who don't travel much except around
neighbouring villages, and who truly source the large
majority of their everyday needs from the land.
Though it is the national language, Nepali is only the
second language of over half of Nepalis. In the last (2002)
census, over 90 distinct alive languages were recognised.
Nepali itself is an Indo-European language with a Sanskrit
base and that uses the Devanagiri script. The other major
group of languages in Nepal is the Tibeto-Burman family,
which includes most of the languages of the middle hills,
the high and trans-Himalaya. English is spoken increasingly
in urban centres and by some people on major trekking
trails.
Of the many ethnic groups in Nepal, there are some
that the visitor will encounter more often:
Newars are the original inhabitants of
Kathmandu Valley. They are renowned for their trading skills
and cultural heritage - much craftsmanship in Nepal and
Tibet is the work of Newars - but there are also many
Newari government officers, and there is a farming subgroup
too. Buddhism and Hinduism are often tightly intertwined in
Newar culture, though there are some Newars who identify
themselves exclusively as one or the other.
Magars are the largest ethnic group in Nepal, and
are found all over the country. They, too, can be both Hindu
and Buddhist, though unlike Newars the Hindus employ Brahmin
priests. Predominantly farmers, many Magars have also
traditionally joined the Nepali, Indian, and British armies.
Gurungs are from the Annapurna region, though there
are settlements all over Nepal. Tibetan in origin, many
Gurungs are now closer to mainstream Hindu culture, or use
their own priests. Gurungs are either pastoralists and
farmers, often in inaccessible little nooks, or armymen.
There are many Gurungs in Hong Kong and Brunei, as a result,
and many extremely well-spoken ex-soldiers along the trails.
The
Rais of the east are known for their sprawling
villages, soldiering prowess, mutually unintelligible
dialects, and facility with bamboo and allo (nettle used to
make wonderful textiles). They are animists and shamanists,
and their shamans, called dhami, are recognisable by their
white outfits and ribbon festooned drums.
Also of the
east, the Limbus, like the Rais, are often
soldiers. They speak a Tibeto-Burman language like most
people of the middle hills and are also often involved in
tea cultivation. Their best known contribution to Nepali
culture is probably tongba, a potent fermented millet drink
that is served in a capped metal container and sipped
through a bamboo straw.
Tamangs are also middle hill people with a
Tibeto-Burman language, though outside Kathmandu Valley they
are more likely to practise their own version of Buddhism,
which is less reliant on formal priests and monasteries.
Tamangs are often
Brahmins (Bahuns) and Chhetris, set up as the the
first and second most authoritative castes in the Hindu
hierarchy, look, when they are from the hills, more like
light skinned Indians. Bahuns are traditionally priests,
landowners, civil servants, and teachers, and very concerned
about ritual pollution. Chhetris are known to be good
soldiers, and much of the top brass of the Nepali army is
Chhetri or some variation thereof, as are the Shah
royalty and Rana nobility.
The Sherpas of east Nepal are almost synonymous with Nepal.
Certainly not all are in the climbing or trekking business,
though for many it continues to remain a viable, desirable
career option. Of Tibetan stock (Shar-pa means 'people of
the east' - of Tibet), Sherpas are devout Buddhists who
often give of their prosperity to the many lamas (priests)
and monasteries they patronise.
Manangis, who live high in the Annapurna circuit are
also closely related to Tibetans. In Nepal they are known
for the special trading rights they have enjoyed for over
two centuries. They continue to deal in precious and
semi-precious stones, skins, and herbs, but more commonly in
Chinese-made clothes, electronic items etc.
Tharus are the largest ethnic group in the tarai,
and are indigenous peoples. Tharu communities have long
lived in thatched houses inside the jungle and had strong
female figures in the family.
Other mountain communities include the Dolpopas in Dolpo
region. Dolpopas are the most isolated of the Tibetan stock
communities of Nepal. This is now being seen as an advantage
particularly by scholars interested in customary modes of
healing and doctors (amchi), as traditional Tibetan medicine
is well-preserved and used in sophisticated ways in this
area.
There are
other communities, generally occupational castes, some of
them considered beyond the pale of the Hindu hierarchy
('untouchable', or more sensitively, dalit), such as Damai
(tailors), Sarki (cobblers), Kami (blacksmiths) etc. Slowly
but surely, caste barriers in Nepal, even in some
not-so-remote villages, are coming down.
Nepal is
home to a sizeable Tibetan refugee population. Those who
came down from the mountains into Kathmandu Valley are often
very successful businessmen and producers of carpets. The
Tibetan influence is seen in the Baudhanath stupa in
particular.
Religion and festivals
Nepal may be the 'only Hindu kingdom in the world', but it
is also the birthplace of the Buddha. Nepal's long tradition
of syncretic religion and tolerance is evident in people's
everyday practice of religion and ritual as well as in the
architecture and statuary in places of worship. It is common
for a structure that appears to be, or is called, a (Hindu)
temple to house manifestations of the Buddhist pantheon.
Newars in particular combine both religions in their worship
as well as architecture. In other parts of Nepal, Hinduism
is sometimes merely the overlay for shamanism (as with Rais
and Limbus) and animism (Gurungs). Often it is Buddhism that
is underpinned by customary belief in the forces of nature (Tamangs).
Sometimes all these are combined into something
unrecognisable but anyway compelling, and obviously
comforting to its practitioners. In many regions what we
commonly call Buddhism is in fact an older Tibetan religion
called Bön. A kind of animism, this nevertheless
incorporates the ritual paraphernalia of Buddhism - upside
down. For example, they circumambulate a chhorten (also
stupa, Buddhist place of worship, usually a solid dome
pyramided towards the top inside which is houses a relic of
a famous teacher or meditator) counter-clockwise.
The
Hinduism practised in Nepal is similar to that in India,
with the notable exception that animal sacrifice remains an
integral part of mainstream Hindu practice. It remains a
fundamentally conservative religion, with Brahmins or
priests being 'born' before they can be made. In general
westerners, even if practising Hindus, are denied entrance
into the sanctum sanctorum of Hindu temples
While
Buddhists account for less than 10% of Nepal's population,
it remains an important part of Nepali public culture and
self-image. In general, Nepali and Tibetan Buddhists are of
the Mahayana and Vajrayana paths, though some Newar
Buddhists are of the Hinayana persuasion (close to the
Theravada Buddhism of Sri Lanka and Thailand).
In addition
to the various kinds of animists and shamanists, there is a
small Muslim population in Nepal, and an even smaller
Christian one. Proselytisation is illegal and punishable by
imprisonment.
Although
there are numerous local sacred spaces and temples, a few
are standouts on any visit to Nepal. In Kathmandu are two
Buddhist chhorten. Swayambhunath, which stands spectacularly
on a hill north-west of Kathmandu, is supposed to have
arisen out of the ground of its own volition. Sacred to both
Hindus and Buddhists, it is considered to be of more
importance to Buddhists such as Manangis and Tamangs. There
are numerous little shrines all around that are visited by
all. Bouddhanath, one of the largest chhorten in the world,
and one it is every Tibetan Buddhists dream to visit at
least once, is the centre of Sherpa and Tibetan (refugee)
culture in Nepal. This splendid stupa ringed by shops is
reminiscent of the Jorkhang/ Barkhor in Lhasa, and is the
focal point of a few score monasteries in the neighbourhood.
The best known Hindu temple, considered the most sacred spot
in the Valley, and certainly where the palace takes its
religious guidance from is Pashupatinath. This pagoda-style
temple, reminiscent of other temples around the Valley, is
set in a massive shady grove through which the Bagmati
flows. On a little hillside behind the main temple are
numerous small shrines and covered meditation slabs.
The most
special site of religious devotion has to be Muktinath, at
3,800 m. A pagoda-style temple set in a wooded glade, this
shrine is beloved by Hindus, Buddhists, and animists alike.
What makes it special is that here three major elements
co-exist in very close quarters. water flows out of an
ancient stone, and an eternal flame hovers just above this
very water.
There are
so many festivals in Nepal, all so different, and all so
entrancing, it's worth planning your trip to catch a
celebration somewhere in the country.
The biggest (Hindu) festival is the
ten-day long Dasain in October, which
remembers the victory of the virtuous king Rama over the
demon Ravana. There's praying, revelling, gambling,
visiting, much eating and cooking of delicacies, and all
kinds of other fun. The country virtually grinds to a halt,
as for a large part of the festival banks and government
offices are also closed. Meanwhile on the highways things
are chaotic and festive as people rush back to their
villages to celebrate with their families and ritually
slaughter ducks, goats, chicken, buffaloes - whatever they
can afford. Each of the ten days is dedicated to a different
puja.
Three weeks
after the madness and fun that is Dasain comes the festival
of lights, Tihar, which propitiates the
goddess of wealth Laxmi - and siblings, crows, and dogs too.
Little groups of boys and girls go around the Valley singing
and being paid (off, usually). The city is light up by the
thousands of oil lamps and fairy lights everyone sets out to
welcome the goddess into their homes. And there's gambling
too, lots of gambling.
A Kathmandu
Valley specialty in early September is Indra Jatra,
an eight-day aila (homebrew) fuelled revel to propititate
the god Indra to ensure good postmonsoon showers for a good
rice harvest. The little Kumari ('living goddess') presides
over some of the festivities, there are demon dances, and a
river of potent Newari rice liquor flows from the mouth of
one of the horrific-faced masks in Darbar Square.
Lhosar, the Tibetan New Year falls close to the
Chinese New Year in mid-February. For Buddhists other than
Tibetans and Sherpas the date can fall anywhere from
mid-December to March. There's plenty of visiting, eating,
drinking and gambling, and also the more religious business
of changing the prayer flags that devout Buddhists string up
from their rooftops. At Baudhanath stupa, it's a
life-affirming, light-filled few days with well-behaved
crowds dressed to the nines.
In the
Everest region of Khumbu, it's worth catching the three-day
Mani Rimdu in the village of Tengboche in
November and Thame in May. In the monasteries the monks
break out the gongs, cymbals, and scary dance masks.
There are
scores of other festivals, some widely celebrated, some
local village traditions. One of especial interest is
Gai Jatra (Cow Fiesta) in July/ August, which is to
remember the dead of each family. But it's far from
depressing. On this day you can mock, make fun of, slander,
and generally defame and lie all you want. There is role
reversal in schools, cross-dressing, and absolute, utterly
funny, rubbish in the media. Every new moon it's worth
visiting Baudhanath stupa to see them whitewash the massive
dome and light scores of butter lamps. Also of interest are
the Buddha's birthday in May, and the Dalai
Lama's on July 6.
The arts,
architecture and culture
The best known art form of the many practised in Nepal is
thangka painting. Associated most with Tibetan Buddhism,
this form uses pre-determined symbols and figures to tell
various stories about the life of the Buddha and his many
manifestations. Ideally the paints used are of a deep, dull
sheen and made from stone and other natural materials. Less
well-known, however, is that there is a native Nepali style
of painting called paubha that many say was exported to
Tibet, and heavily influenced thangka painting. Paubha is
the preserve of Newari artists (from the Chitrakar
sub-group) from Kathmandu Valley. It performs a similar
function but looks visually quite different, exhibiting
qualities you see in thangka, but also distinct Indian Hill
and Mughal miniature influences. There's a burgeoning
contemporary art scene in the capital, and Kathmandu and
Patan are filled with galleries showcasing some innovative
work.
The
artisans of Kathmandu Valley have for centuries been prized
- Newari craftsmen worked on the great Buddhist structure at
Borobodur in Java in 8th century. Their facility with wood
and metallurgy also made them historically much valued in
Tibet and China. A large part of the credit for the numerous
temples and other ancient structures in the Valley goes not
only to the artisans and craftsmen who designed and executed
the multi-layered roofs and elaborately carved struts and
beams, but also to a man called Arniko, after whom the
highway to Tibet today is named. Arniko was in the 13th
century a consultant to the court in Tibet and then in Ming
China.
Traditional
statuary abounds in stone as well as metal, with there being
some truly innovative techniques in the latter, such as
lost-wax casting. Unfortunately, a considerable part of
Nepal's artistic heritage, which is nearly always in the
public space in temples and the like, has been plundered and
smuggled out and now rests in private western collections.
In the last decade the scale of the problem has become
smaller, thanks to increasing awareness of what this
cultural loss means and therefore greater vigilance on the
part of the guthis, or trusts that control temple premises.
Nepal
abounds in the softer arts, too. There are days when it
seems like every Nepali can sing in the style of their
particular ethnic group, whether it is improvised 'slanging
matches', called dohori, or the lovely - and also improvised
- call and response songs. The flute and the drum, women in
devotion, bands of children carolling through the streets,
street singers with their lutes, these are all sounds you
hear far more often than you would imagine. There is more
formal, 'classical' music (close to north Indian classical
music) too. It's the same story with dance - every ethnic
group has its own ways of swaying to the music, whether it
relies more on hand-twirling, grinding down, line-dancing,
or performing elaborate squatting-kicks. Newars have three
forms of traditional dance, all of which are thankfully
enjoying a revival now.
Literature
is flourishing in Nepal. Some might say it always has, with
everyone from kings and queens, to small children revelling
in writing poetry. There are some translations of
Nepali-language prose and poetry in the bookshops; authors
to look out for are Laxmi Prasad Devkota, Bala Krishna Sama,
Bhupi Serchan, and Banira Giri. There is a younger
generation of Nepalis who write in English, such as Samrat
Upadhya and Majushree Thapa. There is still in Nepal a
strong tradition of oral storytelling, especially around
festival time and it's often interesting just to see how the
(semi-)professional bards regale their audiences.
Flora, fauna, and
conservation
High altitude takes on a new meaning when you learn that in
Nepal the treeline is at about 5,000 m. At about this
height, depending on which region you are in, and as long as
it is not deepest winter, you can find rhododendrons and
scores of other wildflowers, the grasslands that go even
higher, as well as the more classic alpine-type of trees,
such as juniper, spruce, birch, pine, fir, regular cedar and
the unique Himalayan genus, deodar.
As you go
further down there are temperate forests, both upper and
lower (1,500 m-3,000 m). Here are plenty of spreading oak
trees, bamboo stands, chestnut, blue pine, walnut and maple.
Flowers are aplenty, including rhododendron and magnolia,
and on some treks you get to walk through forests that,
slightly higher though they might be, are home to over 100
varieties of orchids.
Nepal is a
birdwatcher's paradise. Almost 10% of the world's birds are
found here - that's over 800 species. Large scavengers are
common in Kathmandu Valley - kites, vultures, hawks - though
outside the city and in the surrounding hills you spot an
enormous selection of the birds of Nepal. There are tiny,
loud sunbirds, blue-throated Himalayan barbets, many
varieties of pigeon, cranes, and pheasant, including the
national bird, the Impeyan pheasant. In the high Himalaya
watch out for lammergeier, ravens, eagles, and the like.
Among the
many rare and endangered species found in Nepal are the snow
leopard in the high Himalaya and the tiger and rhino in the
tarai. There are many kinds of deer, including the musk
deer, monkeys, felines including the endangered leopard,
crocodiles, snakes, and wild boar. Up in the high Himalaya
you're more likely to see birds and the occasional marmot or
blue sheep. A safari through the tarai is an excellent way
to explore some of the spectacular wildlife of Nepal.
National
Parks, Conservation Areas, Wildlife Preserves, and Hunting
Reserves: These designations depend on the fragility of an
ecosystem, the rarity of the species that live within it,
and the importance of the area to local people (did or do
they live inside it, how much do they depend upon it for
forest products, etc). Most of the touring and trekking you
do in Nepal will be in some such area. All of them charge a
fee, which we include in the cost of your trip. The fee is
used to aid conservation and education efforts. The National
Parks are, from west to east: Khaptad National Park (no
trip), Rara National Park (trek), Royal Bardiya National
Park (south, no trip??) Shey Phoksumdo National Park (trek),
Royal Chitwan National Park (safari), Langtang National Park
(trek), Sagarmatha National Park (Everest trek),
Makalu-Barun National Park (trek). The Conservation Areas of
Annapurna, Manaslu, and Kanchenjunga also have trekking
possibilities.
Food and
drink
You will hear that Nepal's national meal is
dal-bhat-tarkari - rice, lentil soup, and vegetables. That's
true enough, but how little it tells! The main difference
between Nepali food which described this way, sounds like
Indian, is how light it is. There is no preponderance of
spice, no heavy overcooking. The lush, full tastes of the
lentils themselves, the vegetables, always with wilted
greens on the side, onions, garlic, and sometimes ghiu
(clarified butter) or a little cumin - that's the basis. but
every community every village, every household has its own
recipes for the dal, or for achar - freshly made conserves
with radish, chili, roasted tomato or just about anything,
spiced with ground sesame and mustard seeds or timur, the
inordinately fragrant black peppercorn look-alike. There are
things like gundruk - fermented and dried greens - and
maseura - dried nuggets of black gram and vegetable - that
are used to make the most delicious broths.
In the
hills of Nepal there is more to life than dal-bhat.
Consider, for example, the potato. Sherpas happily eat
entire meals consisting of boiled potatoes with salt and
chilli powder on the side or their most appetising potato
pancakes. Many mid-hill communities eat sisnu, stinging
nettle soup - a very strange looking (neon-green) utterly
delicious gravy, over grain cooked like polenta or grits,
called dhido, which could be made of wheat, millet, corn or
buckwheat. Nepalis love meat, and the Buddhist prohibition
stands only for slaughter, and above certain places at
particular times of the year, so mountain communities enjoy
yak meat, fresh and dried, and all over Nepal people with a
little spare money happily feast on buffalo (beef is sacred
and cannot be slaughtered), mutton, chicken, fish (fresh and
dried, all river) and duck.
Tibetan-influenced food such as thukpa (noodle soup), fing (mung
bean threads cooked with vegetables and meat), and
sha-bhaley (a crusty cross between bread and pastry stuffed
with meat and pan-fried) adds variety. The debate about the
ubiquitous momo (wonderful steamed or fried wonton/ ravioli
stuffed with chicken, pork, vegetables and many other new
inventive things continues - do you like the classic
version, pork lightly flavoured with ginger and scallions,
served with a meat broth on the side? Thick covering or
thin? Small or large? Heavily spiced with powders and herbs
or mild and meaty? Are vegetarian momo sacrilegious? The
little street-side momocha or fancy open Chinese-style sui
mai? Another mischievous debate to start is ask people which
momos they think are better: Tibetan or Newari.
The most
distinctive and sophisticated cuisine in Nepal has to be
that of the Kathmandu Valley Newars. More than anything else
these tastes remind you of where you are located
geographically - near Tibet and Burma and Bengal - the
dominant flavours are the tang of sour fruit extracts, the
bright heat of chilli, liberal and innovative use of mustard
and sesame, and the fresh flavours of uncooked ginger and
garlic. The standouts include: a particular very spicy sour
potato dish, piro aloo; achar with radish and small dried
green peas spiced with mustard; aloo (potato) or sukuti
(delicious dried buffalo meat) sandheko, a larb-like flavour
explosion served cold after being marinated well with
ginger, garlic, fried fenugreek seeds, tomatoes and green
chilli; sekuwa, the traditionally spiced barbecue; chhoila
and kachila, masterfully spiced dry-cooked meats, with the
latter often 'cooked' through marination, rather than over
fire; saag, regular wilted greens made magical by the
infusion of crushed sesame seeds; and the subtly
onion-and-basil seed flavoured nine-bean soup, kwanti.
To wash
down this embarrassment of riches all the ethnic/ indigenous
communities have their own versions of homebrew. The two
major kinds: distilled and clear, made from a variety of
grains including rice and millet. The general name for this
firewater is raksi, while Newars call their rice-brew aila.
Up in the Jomosom area Thakalis prepare a deceptively
coloured delicate pink raksi from bearded barley that is a
great warmer. The fermented, milky beer-like booze is called
jaand by Nepali-speakers and chhang by Tibetan-stock
communities like Tamangs and Sherpas. While raksi can do
your head in, you really must be careful with chhang, as it
could cause gastro-intestinal problems and infections if not
prepared hygienically. The smell, too, will be slowly
leaving your pores for a couple of days. Up by the apple and
apricot orchards of Marpha they have started to make
European-style fruit brandy and schnapps, all going by the
misleading name, Marpha. Some of this is really quite good.
Needless to
say, there is plenty of other good food, western and
eastern, Italian and Japanese, available in Kathmandu. The
same goes for drinks - there are local beers, many, such as
Tuborg, Carlsberg and San Miguel brewed under license from
European companies, and our very own Everest beer, as well
as good local rum (Khukuri), vodka (Ruslan), and whisky (Mt
Everest, naturally).
Travelling to
Nepal: The basics
Visas:
Citizens of virtually all countries require a visa to enter
Nepal. This can often be obtained on arrival at the airport
for EU and North American citizens. On occasion the visa on
arrival at the airport can be cheaper than in your home
country. Check TKTK for updated visa regulations and fees,
as well as to locate the consulate or embassy of Nepal
closest to you. If you are applying for a visa on arrival or
prior to departure, your passport must be valid for at least
sic ore months, and you must carry a passport-sized
photograph. A visa on arrival costs US$30 for 60 days,
single entry, and $50 double entry.
Permits:
All tours and treks to areas designated as Conservation
Areas, National Parks, or Restricted Areas require you to
purchase a permit. It is in all cases cheaper to process
this in Kathmandu at the concerned government office. Office
hours are 1000-1500, and Saturdays are holidays. This means
that if you arrive on Friday and depart for your trek or
tour on Sunday, you need to provide us beforehand with a
checklist of information, 4 passport size photos for
Restricted Areas (Mustang, Manaslu, Dolpo), and two passport
pictuers for other areas such as Annapurna, Everest, and
Langtang. Usually, we will let you know in advance what we
need, and also inform you of any government holidays or
festivals that need to be factored in.
Airport tax:
Visitors must factor in an airport tax of Nepali Rs 1,795
for international flights out of Kathmandu, as well as NRs
TKTK for each domestic flight.
Reaching Kathmandu:
From the time you land until you depart, we take care of
whatever you need. What we cannot do is reserve your
international flight. Discuss this with your travel agent at
your end and do consider that if you fly via New Delhi or
Bangkok, your flight options - and reliability - increase
dramatically. Some of the best connections you can make are
with Thai, Gulf, Qatar, Austrian (in season), Druk Air, Air
China, Phuket Air, and other Indian and international
airlines such as Indian Airlines, Lufthansa etc.
Currency:
The currency in Nepal is the Nepali Rupee. Most major
international currencies and travellers' cheques can be
exchanged in Kathmandu. Tourists commonly bring in US$, UK£,
€,
ChF, Aus$ etc. If you keep your foreign exchange encashment
certificate, or exchange office receipt, you may change back
any remaining Nepali Rupees at departure. Major credit cards
(except American Express) are accepted in Kathmandu and
Pokhara and ATMS will usually dispense cash on foreign
credit and debit cards too. Banks work weekdays
0930-1500, though some of the
larger banks have one counter open in the city throughout
the day and on all public holidays. Kantipath and Durbar
Marg, close to the tourist and shopping centre of Thamel,
house a number of banks including Standard Chartered (who
issue cash advances against Visa and MasterCard with no
commission), Nepal Investment Bank, and Nabil Bank. All
through Thamel, open from 0800-2200, are money exchange
counters that offer reasonable rates. There is no real
tourist black market for foreign currency any more.
Weather:
The best times to visit Nepal, particularly if trekking, are
Sep-Dec and Feb-May. At these times of year, especially the
autumn, the skies are a clear blue, flowers are in bloom,
and walking is easy. Temperatures are moderate, with highs
in the early-mid 20s and lows from 8-13 or so. Daytime
clothing can be as light as a T-shirt and trousers, but
nights can be chilly and require a sweater or a fleece
jacket. Nepal gets the most of its rain in the monsoon from
mid-June-September, so if travelling at this time it is wise
to be well-prepared for rain, and not mind a leech or two
out on the trails. It is entirely possible to trek through
the winter, the only caveat being that you must be prepared
for cold conditions and the off chance of being snowed into
a lodge for a few days.
Insurance:
We strongly advise all our clients to purchase travel
insurance at home before they leave for their trip. Those
planning on trekking are advised additionally to make sure
that their insurance covers the eventuality of a helicopter
rescue/ evacuation to Kathmandu.
Health care:
No vaccinations are required for travel to Nepal.
There are a number of reputed hospitals in Kathmandu,
and three clinics specifically for travellers. The best
known is CIWEC on Darbar Marg, near the tourist and shopping
centre Thamel. If going trekking above 3,000-3,500 m, ensure
that all medical conditions are under control and that any
medication you take will not interfere with Diamox, which is
often administered to ease some of the symptoms of the
acclimatisation process. Travelling in Nepal is safe,
health-wise, and there is no reason you should fall prey to
gastro-intestinal disorders if you take common sensible
precautions with food, drink, and personal hygiene. Take
particular care with water, and if bottled water is
unavailable, drink only what you know has been sterilised,
or do so yourself (carry water purification tablets with
you).
Hotel accommodation:
Tin-Tin Trekking provides tourist standard accommodation in
Kathmandu and Pokhara in hotels close to the agency as well
as the tourist, recreation and shopping centres of Thamel
and Lakeside. If, however, you wish to stay in a particular
hotel or simply a different class of hotel, please let us
know. We can usually arrange a discounted rate for our
clients at most hotels. Check www.nepalhotels.com for more
information. All hotels we organise will store your
remaining baggage when you are on a trek or tour.
Restaurants:
In Kathmandu and Pokhara you will be accommodated in
localities that house many different kinds of restaurants.
We can direct you to usually reliable, clean restaurants in
a variety of price ranges and catering to tastes ranging
from traditional Nepali dal-bhat to steak. Just bear in mind
that many restaurants in Kathmandu take last orders around
2100-2200; in Pokhara this is even earlier.
Some restaurants, cafés
and bars popular in Kathmandu among tourists, locals, and
expats are:
Nanglo Restaurant, Durbar
Marg. Good Nepali, continental, and Chinese, and excellent
ambience. The Nepali set lunch is a good option in the
aftermoon, as is the barbecue in the evening, under the
sprawling tree. Lunch including drinks ca. $4-6 per person.
Bhanchha Ghar, Kamaladi.
Typical multicourse Nepali meal (set), set to tradional
dance and music in an old building. Ca. $10 per head at
dinner without drinks.
Himalayan Java, Thamel
entrance. Casual, many varieties of coffee, salads,
sandwiches, $4-6 per head for snack/ light lunch or dinner.
Fire and Ice, Thamel
entrance. Legendary thin crust pizza, past, polenta,
soft-serve ice-cream, Italian-owned and run. $5-10 per head
with drink.
Tibet Kitchen, Thamel. Excellent momos (Tibetan
steamed ravioli), noodle soups and other traditional Tibetan
dishes. Good dinner at $4-5 with drink.
Tashi Dhele, Thamel. Old
standby for hot, cheap meals, including good Tibetan and
Mexican. $2-4, lunch or dinner with drink.
New Orleans, Thamel. Good drinks, coffee, breakfast,
interesting international menu, alfresco and covered. $2-10
with drink.
Maya Cocktail Bar, Thamel.
Excellent huge selection of cocktails, two-for-one happy
hours, popular with all. $2-4 per drink.
Roadhouse Café,
Thamel. Excellent wood-fired pizza, hummous, coffee, and
cocktails. $4-6 with drink
Picnic, Thamel. Excellent,
spotless, value-for-money Korean, popular with all. $1-7
with drink. Closed 25th every
month.
Everest Steak House, Thamel.
Excellent - and enormous - post-trek steaks with a variety
of sauces. $4-8 with drink.
Friendship Restaurant,
Darbar Marg. Authentic Chinese chefs, clientele, and dishes.
$2-8 with drink.
Tamura, Hotel Kido,
Thapathali. Japanese for Japanese visitors, expats,
well-kept secret. $5-12 with drink.
Gangri Sui Mai, Teku.
Well-loved by locals for the open momos with four three
sauces, and quality Chinese and Nepali meals. Lunch, dinner
$2-4.
Royal Lotus, Bakhundole
Patan. Real Thai food. Prix-fixe lunch with drink $3-5.
Tuesday closed.
These are just a few suggestions
to get you started; please do ask for more ideas.
Tipping:
Tipping is catching on in Nepal. How much you leave depends,
naturally, on the service you get, but also on the scale of
the restaurant. At a smaller, cheaper restaurant a few
rupees usually rounds up the bill and is adequate, while at
more upscale western-style restaurants you can round up the
bill and add a little, or leave anything from 5-15%
depending on how satisfied you are.
If you want to tip the staff, do
so at the end of your trek or tour. These are only
suggestions based on what people have found reasonable to
give in the past. For guide/ sirdar and cook: Rs 100-200 per
day for the group. For porters, Rs50-100 per day for the
group.
Shopping:
Kathmandu is a shoppers' paradise. There is something for
everybody, from adorable handknitted woollen outfits for
children to trekking and climbing gear, from inexpensive
silver jewellery to very expensive amber and turqouise, from
thangka paintings (Buddhist religious art) to pashmina
shawls, and great deals on cameras and cotton clothing. The
key to not overpaying is not buying the first thing you see,
no matter how much you like it. Look at similar merchandise
in a couple more shops, compare prices and quality, and even
try your hand at bargaining. Bargaining does not have to be
hostile or exhausting - if you treat it as a game and don't
try to beat people down to the lowest possible price - it's
just a few rupees difference.
Barring shoes, you should be able
to buy a lot of items you need for your trek in Kathmandu.
The quality of the imitation windstoppers, down jackets,
Gore-Tex gear, and fleece gear varies, but it is possible to
get quality products for a lower price than back home. If
nothing else, most of the gear is suitable for at least one
trek. Look out for the slightly more expensive - but
original - Chinese-made branded gear from Mountain Hardware
and North Face. These are worth the money. Also available at
reasonable prices are original headlamps, high-performance
socks, ski/ trekking poles, and some climbing gear and
quality sunglasses.
Electricity and electronic equipment:
Devices run on 220 volts here, so be sure to bring
converters for 110V devices. While most wall sockets are the
round three-pin variety, there can sometimes be a
frustrating variety of outlets, and it is best to have at
least one plug adapter. If you are bringing along sensitive
electronic equipment, also include a surge protector/
voltage stabiliser. While there is no real electricity in
some areas along the trekking trails, many villages have
improvised and possess generators, micro-hydropower plants,
or solar-powered batteries, and will allow you to charge
your equipment and batteries for a fee.
Photography and video:
There is a surprisingly good range of film-based and digital
still and video cameras, as well as accessories available,
but to be on the safe side bring along whatever lenses,
memory sticks and filters you anticipate needing.
The etiquette for photographing
people, images of gods and godesses, temples and other
religious monuments is the same as anywhere in the world. Do
ask if you're in doubt about whether it is okay or
not. In places where you are instructed that photography is
prohibited, please be sensitive to the requirement. For
example, when at Pashupatinath temple, tourists are not
allowed close to the cremation pyres. You might see some
standing across the river taking pictures with telephoto
lenses. In this case ask yourself if one mediocre picture is
worth your intruding into someone else's grief, and decide
for yourself.
Beggars:
In general begging is frowned upon in Nepal and there aren't
many beggars, but tourist areas are the exception and there
are a few. Please do not give them money. As you will
see, a number of them, most noticably the young boys, are
junkies, hooked on sniffing glue or slugging cough syrup.
Your 'charity' will feed either their habit or that of their
parents. It is perfectly okay to give them any food items
you may have, ensuring however that you open the package
before giving it. This is not as patronising as it sounds;
it is a way to stop them selling it for a little cash to
someone else and often then supporting their drug habit.
