Travelling to Tibet: The Basis
Visas and permits:
Citizens of virtually all countries require a visa to enter
China. Please note, however, that a Chinese visa does not,
in fact, allow you to enter Tibet. This requires a special
permit, which if you travel in an organised tour, as is
mandated, is organised by us in Kathmandu, where the Embassy
of the People's Republic of China deals with these matters.
In addition, you will need a visa
in order to enter Nepal, from where all our trips to Tibet
begin, Again, citizens of virtually all countries requires
this, but it is in general easily obtained on arrival at the
airport for EU, North American, Australian, New Zealand,
Israeli, and South African citizens. On occasion the visa on
arrival at the airport can be cheaper than in your home
country. Check with the consulate or embassy of Nepal
closest to you. If you are applying for a visa on arrival or
prior to departure, your passport must be valid for at least
six more months, and you must carry a passport-sized
photograph. A visa on arrival costs US$30 for 60 days,
single entry, and $50 for double entry.
Please note that visa and permit
fees could change at any time, and in the event that
happens, we reserve the right to levy an additional charge
on clients.
Airport tax:
Visitors must factor in an airport departure tax of Nepali
Rs 1,795 for international flights (Rs 1,400 if flight is
terminating in a SAARC country), as well as NRs TKTK for
each domestic flight.
Reaching Kathmandu:
From the time you land in Kathmandu until you depart, we
take care of whatever you need. Where the package includes a
one-way or round-trip flight between Kathmandu and Lhasa,
this cost is included in the price of the package, as is all
road-transport described in the itineraries. What we cannot
do is reserve your international flight from and to your
home (see Costing under Terms and Conditions). Discuss this
with your travel agent at your end and do consider that if
you fly via New Delhi or Bangkok, your flight options - and
reliability - increase dramatically. Some of the best
connections you can make are with Thai, Gulf, Qatar,
Austrian (in season), Druk Air, Air China, Phuket Air, and
other Indian and international airlines such as Indian
Airlines, etc.
Currency:
The
currency in Nepal is the Nepali Rupee. Most major
international currencies and travellers' cheques can be
exchanged in Kathmandu. Tourists commonly bring in US$, UKŁ,
Euro, ChF, Aus$ etc. If you keep your foreign exchange
encashment certificate, or exchange office receipt, you may
change back any remaining Nepali Rupees at departure. The
currency in The People's Republic of China including the
Tibetan Autonomous Region is the Yuan. Money can be
exchanged at bank branches in Zhangmou, Xigatse, and Lhasa.
In Tibet rely more on cash, as
outside Lhasa it can be very difficult to pay with credit
cards. In Kathmandu major credit cards (except American
Express) are accepted and ATMS will usually dispense cash on
foreign credit and debit cards too. Banks work weekdays
0930-1500, though some of the larger banks have one counter
open in the city throughout the day and on all public
holidays. Kantipath and Darbar Marg, close to the tourist
and shopping centre of Thamel, house a number of banks
including Standard Chartered (who issue cash advances
against Visa and Mastercard with no commission), Nepal
Investment Bank, and Nabil Bank. All through Thamel money
exchange counters are open from 0800-2200 and offer
reasonable rates. There is no real tourist black market for
foreign currency any more.
Weather and clothing:
Generally people consider April-Oct the best time to visit
Tibet. In reality, however, it is important to remember that
around Lhasa, in particular, it does not really snow much in
the winter and hotels are often heated. Travelling out of
season can be very enjoyable given that some important
festivals fall during this time, and that the sights are
simply less crowded. Because of the high altitude of the
Tibetan plateau, when visiting in warmer weather, too, be
prepared with layers - long-sleeved T-shirts, light fleeces
or wool sweaters, and windstoppers are all extremely handy;
this is the most effective way of dealing with what can be
quite a wide spread of temperature through the day. In the
winter bring a warm down jacket, gloves or mittens, a hat
and a scarf. Remember that outside Lhasa, Xigatse and
Gyantse not every stop will or can offer centrally heated
rooms.
Insurance:
All our clients must purchase travel insurance at home
before they leave for their trip. Those planning on trekking
are advised additionally to make sure that their insurance
covers the eventuality of a helicopter rescue/ evacuation to
Kathmandu, repatriation to their home country etc. It is not
possible for travelers to buy insurance here.
Health care:
No vaccinations are required for travel to Nepal and Tibet,
though some do take shots against hepatitis.
There are a number of reputed hospitals in Kathmandu,
and three clinics specifically for travellers. The best
known is CIWEC on Darbar Marg, near the tourist and shopping
centre Thamel.
The high altitude in Tibet means
that you must take it easy with physical exertion, smoking
and drinking alcohol. Instead drink plenty of water and tea.
Be especially vigilant about how you are feeling on the
Kailash trips. In either case ensure that all medical
conditions are under control and that any medication you
take will not interfere with Diamox, which is often
administered to ease some of the symptoms of the
acclimatisation process. The sun in Tibet is extremely
intense and unless you are careful you will be unpleasantly
burnt. Be sure to bring good quality sunglasses as well as
high SPF sun cream or even a zinc-based one.
In general, travelling in Nepal
and Tibet is safe, health-wise, and there is no reason you
should fall prey to gastro-intestinal disorders if you take
common sensible precautions with food, drink, and personal
hygiene. Take particular care especially in Tibet; if
bottled water is unavailable, drink only what you know has
been sterilised, or do so yourself. Ensure you wash your
hands with soap, or use an antibacterial sanitising gel
before you eat or drink.
Hotel accommodation:
Tin-Tin Trekking provides tourist standard accommodation in
Kathmandu in hotels close to the agency as well as the
tourist, recreation and shopping centre of Thamel
respectively. If, however, you wish to stay in a particular
hotel or simply a different class of hotel, please let us
know. We can usually arrange a discounted rate for our
clients at most hotels. Check www.nepalhotels.com for more
information. All hotels we organise will store your
remaining baggage when you are on a trek or tour.
In Tibet there are officially
classes of hotels and often there is not much to
differentitate them by. In general Tin-Tin clients stay at
well-reputed budget hotels such as Flora in Lhasa. There are
all the amenities you need in Lhasa in hotels, but outside
be prepared for even deluxe hotels to sometimes leave
something to be desired.
Restaurants:
In Kathmandu you will be accommodated in localities that
house many different kinds of restaurants. We can direct you
to usually reliable, clean restaurants in a variety of price
ranges and catering to tastes ranging from traditional
Nepali dal-bhat to steak. Just bear in mind that many
restaurants in Kathmandu, take last orders around 2100-2200.
Tipping:
Tipping is catching on in Nepal. How much you leave depends,
naturally, on the service you get, but also on the scale of
the restaurant. At a smaller, cheaper restaurant a few
rupees usually rounds up the bill and is adequate, while at
more upscale western-style restaurants you can round up the
bill and add a little, or leave anything from 5-15%
depending on how satisfied you are.
If you want to tip the staff, do
so at the end of your trek or tour. These are only
suggestions based on what people have found reasonable to
give in the past - for guide/ sirdar and cook: Rs 100-200
per day for the group. For porters, Rs 50-100 per day for
the group.
Shopping:
Kathmandu is a shoppers' paradise. There is something for
everybody, from adorable handknitted woollen outfits for
children to trekking and climbing gear, from inexpensive
silver jewellery to very expensive amber and turqouise, from
thangka paintings (Buddhist religious art) to pashmina
shawls, and great deals on cameras and cotton clothing. The
key to not over-paying is not buying the first thing you
see, no matter how much you like it. Look at similar
merchandise in a couple more shops, compare prices and
quality, and even try your hand at bargaining. Bargaining
does not have to be hostile or exhausting - if you treat it
as a game and don't try to beat people down to the lowest
possible price - it's just a few rupees difference.
Barring shoes, you should be able
to buy a lot of items you need for your trek in Kathmandu.
You can often get better deals for gear in Tibet, but note
that whether you buy in Kathmandu or Lhasa, the quality of
the imitation windstoppers, down jackets, Gore-Tex gear, and
fleece gear varies, but it is possible to get quality
products for a lower price than back home. If nothing else,
most of the gear is suitable for at least one trek. Look out
for the slightly more expensive - but original -
Chinese-made branded gear from Mountain Hardware and North
Face. These are worth the money. Also available at
reasonable prices are original head lamps, high-performance
socks, ski/ trekking poles, some climbing gear, and quality
sunglasses.
Electricity and electronic equipment:
Devices run on 220 volts here, so be sure to bring
converters for 110V devices. While most wall sockets are the
round three-pin variety, there can sometimes be a
frustrating variety of outlets, and it is best to have at
least one plug adapter. If you are bringing along sensitive
electronic equipment, also include a surge protector/
voltage stabiliser. While there is no real electricity in
some areas along the trekking trails, many villages have
improvised and possess generators, micro-hydropower plants,
or solar-powered batteries, and will allow you to charge
your equipment and batteries for a fee.
Photography and video, and other etiquette:
There is a surprisingly good range of film-based and digital
still and video cameras in Kathmandu, as well as accessories
available, but to be on the safe side bring along whatever
lenses, memory sticks and filters you anticipate needing.
The etiquette for photographing
people, images of gods and godesses, temples and other
religious monuments is the same as anywhere in the world. Do
ask if you're in doubt about whether it is okay or
not. In places where you are instructed that photography is
prohibited, please be sensitive to the requirement. For
example, at Pashupatinath temple, where tourists are not
allowed close to the cremation pyres, you might see some
standing across the river taking pictures with telephoto
lenses. In this case ask yourself if one mediocre picture is
worth your intruding into someone else's grief, and decide
for yourself.
In Tibet be careful to not
initiate discussions on politics or politicsed religion in
any shape or form. While you can definitely get in trouble
for this, it is even worse for the Tibetans with whom you
bring up these subjects - they don't have the option to
leave to avoid official censure or worse. In addition
travellers are advised to think twice before carrying
pictures of the Dalai Lama to hand out to Tibetans .
Beggars:
In general begging is frowned upon in Nepal and there aren't
many beggars, but tourist areas are the exception and there
are a few. Please do not give them money. As you will
see, a number of them, most noticeably the young boys, are
junkies, hooked on sniffing glue or slugging cough syrup.
Your 'charity' will feed either their habit or that of their
parents. It is perfectly okay to give them any food items
you may have, ensuring however that you open the package
before giving it. This is not as patronising as it sounds;
it is a way to stop them selling it for a little cash to
someone else and often then supporting their drug habit.
In Tibet, follow what the locals
do, and unless a beggar is obviously a devotee on pilgrimage
do not give any money, whether to adults or children, no
matter how raggedy they look.
Miscellaneous
suggestions:
When you visit the historic old quarters of Kathmandu, Patan,
and Bhaktapur, do make sure that the official puts down your
name and passport number and the date of purchase on your
ticket. You then have access to these old squares for the
length of your stay without having to pay again.
Also, while the both ways flying
option between Kathmandu and Lhasa offers magnificent
Himalayan views, going by road can be fun and give you a
chance to see more of the two countries. If travelling by
road one or both ways, it is advisable to carry some of your
own dry snacks such as nuts, chocolate and biscuit, fruit,
and water.