Understanding trekking
It is
believed in many parts of the world that the fresh, cool
air coming off mountains can take off years of exhaustion
from a person. It is equally true that of all the beauty
and splendour in the world that of its highest mountains
is incomparable. Trekking - walking in the mountains - is
the perfect way to reconnect - with yourself, nature, a
companion. The combination of good exercise, crystalline
air, blue skies and towering snow-capped vistas, local
culture and good companions is such a perfect combination
of rejuvenation and adventure that people who do it once
can't seem to stop!
It's
very important to understand that your experience of the
mountains in Europe, North America, and Australia are not
a reflection of what you will experience here. On the most
common trekking route, the Annapurna Circuit, for example,
the highest point, which thousands of trekking tourists
cross every year, is Thorong La (Pass). At 5,416 m, this
is higher than the classic highest peak in Europe, Mt
Blanc (4,807 m), and close to the height of the new
Highest European mountain Elbrus (5,642 m). Unlike in
Europe, where the tree-line and snow-line are both much
lower, sometimes a couple of thousand metres, than those
in Nepal, people live and walk through the Himalaya, even
close to 5,000 m, raising yak and sheep, and growing crops
such as potato, barley, buckwheat, and in warmer months or
in greenhouses (in Tibet, especially) vegetables too. So,
as long as you are fit and careful about not gaining
altitude too fast, most treks that go over higher passes
should be challenging, but far from crazy goals.
How to choose a trek
Classic or non-classic
While large-scale trekking started in the 1970s in Nepal,
most people tend to stick to the classic routes - the
Annapurna Circuit, Annapurna Base Camp, Everest Base Camp,
the Khumbu (Everest) region. These routes are extremely
well-travelled. Whether you use them or take your own
tents, there are lodges (called 'teahouses') and villages
all along the way here, and a core local population for
whom trekkers are no surprise. The Annapurna circuit is
sometimes even called the Apple Pie trail because
industrious locals have put the thriving apple orchards to
good use, preparing excellent baked desserts.
The
non-classic routes involve going off the beaten track,
whether further east to Kanchenjunga or Manaslu base
camps, or west to Shey Phoksumdo National Park, with its
magical Rara lake. On these trips you walk through much
more remote country - the villages will by no means have
tourist-standard accommodation or anything but the most
basic local food, there are far fewer signs of
development, and while most trekking areas in Nepal are
rugged, many non-classic routes are especially wild
west-looking. To trek these routes it is essential to
carry in all your supplies, tents etc.
There
are advantages to both kinds of treks - it depends on how
far away from it all you want to get, how ready you are,
and how many amenities you want to give up in exchange. It
is a good rule of thumb to think about how we - and many
others in the business - classify treks. We use a
combination of altitude gained and ruggedness of terrain
and trails to make our determination.
How hard will it be?
Easy-Moderate: Up to altitudes of around 3,500 m, these
usually classic treks are not extremely demanding for
anyone with a reasonable/ healthy level of fitness. We've
seen all age groups enjoy these treks, from children under
ten, to septuagenarians.
Moderate-Difficult: Up to 4,500 m. Not all treks in this
range are difficult, and there are some that go higher
classified as Moderate, such as the classic Annapurna
Circuit. This classification is as much to do with the
negotiability of terrain by anyone reasonably competent,
and the presence of relatively good, well-maintained
trails.
Difficult to Strenuous: Up to 5,500 m,
these treks are generally non-classic treks that take you
into rougher country, terrain, trails and facilities. In
addition to being fit, it is recommended that you have
solid prior experience in mountain walking.
Strenuous: These are treks that go over
5,500 m and are almost exploratory in terms of the terrain
and trails (or lack thereof) you have to navigate. These
are only for the hardcore initiated.
Tents or teahouses
The other major decision to make is whether you
want to go on a tented trek or a teahouse trek. On a
tented trek you do not sleep or eat in the lodges. The
staff carry your food and kitchen supplies, as well as the
tents you will need. Every evening they will set up camp
(for a fee, included in the price quoted to you), often in
some of the same villages you would ordinarily stay the
night at, or at any other reasonable stop you suggest.
Your food is prepared for you by the cook accompanying
you, with a mixture of supplies carried in, and local
produce to contribute to the economy of the village you
are staying at. Your suggestions are always welcome. A
toilet tent will also be pitched at every stop.
The
advantage of a camping or tented trek is that you really
are the master of your time and space here. If you are in
a group, in particular, this can be a good way to bond
with the people you're walking with. If you're solo or a
couple, it is a good way to get some much-needed privacy.
You can to a large extent control what you get to eat and
when, or even cook, if the fancy strikes you. (This is not
irrelevant - for most trekkers, the stomach is the most
important organ of the body.) Tented treks epitomise all
that walking in the mountains is really about - adventure,
roughing it (a little!), truly getting away from it all,
and being as close to nature as you can be without
sleeping directly under the stars.
A
teahouse or lodge trek means that you stay and eat at the
lodges along the way. On the classic routes, every planned
night stop is well equipped to deal with trekkers - there
are numerous lodges that cater to western tourists. There
are pros and cons. The beds are usually comfortable, which
is a bonus, but the toilets can be far from you at night.
The atmosphere can be convivial in teahouses, but in high
season this can also mean real overcrowding and delays in
the kitchen.
Since
not everyone wants the same kind of experience while
trekking, based on advice from previous clients we offer a
modified and we believe more convenient version of the
lodge trek. A teahouse trek organised and supported by
Tin-Tin will get you a guide, porters, accommodation in a
lodge with breakfast, the conservation area or 'trekking'
permit, and land and/ or air transportation to the start
and end points of your trek. Tin-Tin costing for teahouse
treks includes only breakfast; you are responsible for
lunch and dinner, and don't need to eat a pre-ordered meal
that your guide orders for you. In virtually all trekking
regions with lodges you are expected to eat in the lodge
you stay at. The reasoning behind this is that the beds
are provided cheap, but to keep a lodge running the owners
need to make additional profit. To not eat your meals at
your teahouse puts the Tin-Tin guide/ sirdar with you in
an awkward and financially disruptive position. Finally, a
word on prices: food and drink (especially bottled drinks)
cost more the higher you go. It's obvious why - it came up
the same trail you did, and someone, a porter, had to
carry it up for a fee. So remember that while a lodge trek
might seem comparatively cheaper, you're not going to save
as much if you drink Coke and beer at high altitude.
When to
go
Obviously, there are the peak months when the scenery is
brilliant with clear skies and crystalline views in most
parts of Nepal - Oct-Dec, and March-May. But by no means
should you take these as cutoff points. First, many people
love to trek in the crisp, snowy winter for the sense of
adventure and really being in nature that it gives them.
Second, even in the monsoon, there are routes and treks
that lie in the rain shadow, such as Manang, around
Jomosom, and Mustang. These are spectacular no matter what
time of year you go. And finally, the bugbear of the
monsoon has a worse reputation than it deserves. Yes,
there are landslides and blocked highways, but that is as
much a problem of infrastructure as the weather itself,
and can be avoided. By a curious quirk, most of Nepal's
rain tends to fall at night, which can mean incredible
mountain views in the early mornings. There can be the
annoyance of leeches lower down, but this is soon passed,
and anyway many trekkers have reported that with a little
caution it is possible to even escape the leeches. If it
rains in the day, it is often just a light drizzle and
your only lookout will to be a little more careful on
slippery trails. Why should you consider trekking in the
monsoon? The landscape will be a hundred shades of
rejuvenating green, with all kinds of bright little
flowers, when it clears the views are better than anything
in the winter, with the contrast between subtropical
greenery and snow peaks, and the trekkers you meet along
the way will be very easygoing and often old Nepal hands.
Walking
The pace of walking in the Himalayas is such that you will
get unique opportunity to not just feast your eyes on the
different aspects of high mountains, and wonderfully
diverse landscapes, but also you will have the enviable
chance to see how life is really lived in a very different
part of the world than yours. The rhythms of life and the
concerns, habits and beliefs of local people will be a
revelation.
You
don't have to be Superman to go trekking. In general you
will walk 4-6 hours a day. A shorter walking time on the
schedule means either that it is more tiring route or more
likely that you need to stop below a certain altitude to
acclimatise. A moderate degree of fitness is all that is
required. When trekking with us you will not be carrying
heavy loads, just an approximately TKTK rucksack with your
necessities for the day. Still, it is important that you
not find this a terrible burden, and that the rucksack
fits you well. In addition, make sure that the boots you
walk in are broken in; new boots on a trek can cause
nightmarish blisters and sores, and twisted ankles. f you
feel you might not be up to the mark, simply start walking
15-30 minutes more everyday a month before you leave for
your trek. Take the stairs more often and when you have
the time and energy just go for a walk. On balance you
should expect that you will exert yourself, though never
to the point of exhaustion or collapse. Rather you will
feel deliciously tired and welcome going to bed by 8 or
9PM.
Food
All water and vegetables used in preparing your meals are
sterilised with iodine, and 100% safe to drink and eat. If
you have any specific requests, do ask us before we leave
for the trip, or even on the way, and we will do our best
to meet your requirements. In any case, the amount of
spice and oil in your meal is easily controlled to suit
your taste. Note that on teahouse or lodge treks organised
by us, the only organised meal is breakfast. Lunch and
dinner is your choice and responsibility. Regardless of
what kind of trek you are doing, do take along your own
personal supply of dry food such as chocolates, dry fruits
and nuts, trail mix, biscuits etc. This way you never have
to go hungry, and the occasional bit of chocolate or
handful of almonds can make all the difference when you're
tired or when you've simply lost your appetite for food.
Notes about mealtime
We request you to please not be concerned,
offended, or uncomfortable if you find at mealtime that
none of the staff are eating with you. In Nepali culture
it is perfectly acceptable to take your meal separately or
with your own smaller group. One of the reasons this
happens a lot on treks is that the food cooked for you is
simply not what the staff are used to - they prefer their
food with a lot more chilli and sometimes different
spices. Another reason is to give downtime to both sides,
a chance to let loose and speak your own language, or
simply not feel obliged to make conversation.
For
breakfast the porters eat dry beaten rice, locally called
chiura, with tea. At lunch they a large meal with rice,
dal (lentil soup), and vegetables. You might be amused at
how much they eat, and at how much chilli they consume -
for a one week trek with six-eight staff, the kitchen
typically carries an entire kilo of green chilli. Dinner
is more of the same, or a hearty noodle soup called thukpa.
Part
of the experience we help you have is that of real
camping. We do not, therefore, insist that our porters
carry around heavy tables and chairs unless clients
specifically ask for them. Rather, we find that passengers
who travel with us are happy to eat in a manner more
suited to traditional camping and closer to Nepali habits:
at mealtimes the kitchen staff will lay out a mattress
covered with a clean cotton 'tablecloth'. You will have
your candlelight together sitting around the mattress.
The role of the
field staff:
Guide: This is a mountain guide,
licensed by the Ministry of Tourism. Their expertise will
have to do with the trails, weather conditions, high
altitude, the mountains around, respect for local
traditions and rituals. They will also have the educated
Nepali's knowledge of the different kinds of ethnicities
along the trail. But they are not - and this point is very
important - cultural guides. They generally won't be able
to tell you in great detail about religion, people,
habits, development, history etc. If you anticipate
wanting to know a lot more about the people and places you
see, we suggest you take along a cultural guide as part of
a supplement.
Climbing Guide: On 'trekking peak'
expeditions the person who will help you navigate the
mountain, ropes etc.
Sirdar: The boss. Responsible for the running of
your entire trek, supervision of the team of staff etc.
Cook: There's a reason for the pre-occupation
with meals here - one, trekking is really hungry work,
two, getting used to a new kind of cooking can take more
time and energy than some people have, and three, the last
thing you want is to get sick on a trek. This is why our
cooks are highly experienced and knowledgeable about
cooking styles and hygiene. They make sure that you get
the freshest, cleanest, and most appetising food possible
with tasty Nepali, Tibetan, and continental meals.
Sherpa: The person responsible for
the equipment, such as tents etc, also acts as a night
guard and in case of sickness or accident, carries the
client/ staff member to the nearest place where medical
help is available.
Kitchen boys: They assist the cook in turning out all the
delicacies, serve the tea and meals, and do the washing
up.
Porters: Porters with Tin-Tin are well
taken care of. They carry not more than 25 kg each
(equipment, tents, kitchen supplies, your belongings etc).
For porters - who tend to be the least privileged of all
trekking staff - are often ignored and unaware of the
dangers of high altitude, frostbite etc, our agency
provides its porters appropriate clothes, shoes,
sunglasses etc.
All
our Nepali trekking staff are covered by agency-paid
medical and health insurance.
Equipment list
for a trek
-
Clothing
-
Down or fibre-filled jacket
-
Fleece jacket or sweater
-
Rain jacket or poncho
-
Hiking pants - light, quick drying fabric in dark
colours are best
-
Zip-off shorts for men - women are advised against
wearing shorts
-
Skirts for women - are very practical on the trail
-
T-shirts, preferably quick drying, possibly thermal tops
for colder treks
-
Thermal underwear for colder treks
-
Underwear
-
Socks, preferably cotton-mix sports socks rather than
heavy wool which dries slower
- Sun
hat
-
Warm hat
-
Gloves/ mittens
-
Swimsuit, if you want to try out a hot spring along the
way
-
Boots
-
Flip-flops
Ideally, you should budget, say, one item of clothing on
your body, one in reserve, and one drying - so, say, three
T-shirts should be enough. However, everyone's individual
needs are different, and while you won't need as much
underwear as you usually do, extra socks can be a
lifesaver.
Gear
-
Daypack (to fit the 8-12 kg you will carry on your
person)
-
Large rucksack or duffel bag to be carried by porters
(you must ensure that any bags being carried by porters
or anyone other than you are locked securely with a
padlock)
-
Pack cover
-
Sleeping bag
-
Sleeping bag liner
-
Insulating pad or self-inflating mattress, if on camping
trek
-
Money belt
-
Small-medium towel
-
Umbrella
-
Water bottle
-
Torch or headlamp, with batteries and spare bulbs
-
Sunglasses
-
Trekking poles, useful on descents
-
Camera
-
Film
-
Plastic bags
-
Padlocks
-
Scissors
-
Small pocketknife
-
Sewing kit
-
Lighter
-
Optional: Book, diary, binoculars, GPS/ altimeter/
thermometer unit
Toiletries
-
Sunscreen
- Lip
balm with sunscreen
-
Toothpaste, small will do
-
Toothbrush
-
Soap, small will do
-
Shampoo, small will do
-
Antibacterial gel
-
Laundry soap
-
Toilet paper
-
Deodorant
-
Moisturiser
-
Water-purification tablets
-
Contact lens solution, if you wear them
Medical kit
-
Antiseptic antibacterial cream or solution
-
Lozenges/ pastilles
-
Antibiotic eye-drops
-
Moleskin
-
Cotton bandages and band-aids
-
Elastic bandages
-
Tweezers
-
Lancing needle
-
Thermometer
-
Sling
-
Aspirin
-
Paracetamol
-
Painkillers
-
Anti-emetic for nausea (not at high altitude)
-
Anti-histamine tablets and cream for allergies
-
Loperamide to control diarrhoea
-
Diamox (acetezolamide)
-
Norfloxacin or cipro to cure diarrhoea, other infections
-
Tinidazole for giardiasis
-
Oral re-hydration salts
-
Other medication that you take regularly or for
conditions you know you suffer from
-
Diabetics should ensure they have adequate supplies of
insulin, the delivery gun, portable blood sugar monitor,
and enough snacks.
